Naples at Christmas
Nativity scenes, festive sweets, and a plan adapted to the city in winter.
Naples is famous for its nativity scenes (presepi), and the Christmas period is when the tradition is most visible, especially on Via San Gregorio Armeno. The weather is cool and often rainy, so plans work best with a mix of indoor sights, walks around the centre and good food.
What to see
Via San Gregorio Armeno
The street of the nativity scenes, in the historic centre near Spaccanapoli. The workshops make figurines and cribs, and around Christmas the street is usually at its busiest.
Presepe Cuciniello at San Martino
A large Neapolitan nativity scene of about 800 pieces, put together in the late 1800s by Michele Cuciniello from 18th-century figures. It is on display at the Certosa e Museo di San Martino on the Vomero hill, which also has views over the bay. A good fit for a rainy day.
Decorations in the centre
During the festive period central spots such as Via Toledo, Galleria Umberto I and Piazza del Plebiscito are usually decorated. The exact decorations and events change every year, so check the city's programme before you go.
San Gennaro, 16 December
On 16 December the Cathedral celebrates the miracle of the liquefaction of the blood of the city's patron saint, one of the three times a year the ceremony takes place. If you travel around that date, it is worth adding to your plan.
Festive food and sweets
Naples has its own festive dishes and sweets. Some you will find only at this time of year, so they are worth looking out for.
Struffoli
Small fried balls of dough with honey and candied fruit, the classic Christmas sweet in Naples.
Roccocò, mostaccioli, susamielli
Traditional Christmas sweets made with spices: roccocò are hard, ring-shaped biscuits with almonds, mostaccioli are often chocolate-covered, and susamielli are S-shaped biscuits with honey and sesame. You will usually find them in pastry shops during the festive period.
The Christmas Eve dinner (la Vigilia)
Christmas Eve is traditionally a meatless dinner built around fish and seafood, and in Naples a classic dish is baccalà (salt cod) alla napoletana. If you want to eat out that evening, check in advance whether your restaurant is open and book a table.
Public holidays and opening hours
In Italy, 8 December, 25 and 26 December, and 1 and 6 January are public holidays. On these days many museums, shops and restaurants have different hours or close. Check opening days on the official pages of the places you want to visit, and book the important ones in advance.
Day trips in winter
- Winter days are shorter, so start day trips early to make the most of the daylight.
- Pompeii and Herculaneum are mostly outdoor sites: in winter bring a waterproof jacket and shoes with good grip, and check opening days around the public holidays.
- If the weather is bad, save day trips for another day and fill the day with museums, such as the National Archaeological Museum.
New Year's Eve
Fireworks and firecrackers are a long-standing New Year tradition in Naples. However, every year the city issues its own rules for New Year's Eve, and in some years the mayor has banned fireworks and firecrackers, for example in areas such as Piazza del Plebiscito, Piazza Municipio and the Lungomare. The rules are not the same every year, so check the city's current notices before you go, and do not set off fireworks yourself. If you want quiet, choose accommodation away from the busiest part of the centre, or ask your host.
Events, decorations and opening hours change every year. Check the official programmes before you book.
Best time to visit Naples
What each season is like, and what to keep in mind before you pick your dates.
How many days do you need in Naples
It mainly depends on whether you also want day trips outside the city.
Plan your festive days
Get ideas for a route around the city, with the ready-made itinerary.